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Related Articles: The Sacai collection began with a hybridized tuxedo-shirt combination, the pleats of the black jacket and white button-down intermingling at their hems. It was worn with a kicky pair of fitted pleated pants, more like leggings than trousers, that opened into flares a few inches north of the ankles. As the model passed, the silhouette got a “wow, that’s great,” from a seatmate. No small feat on the penultimate day of fashion month. Pleats are the main event at Sacai this season. Designer Chitose Abe’s collection was in progress long before Issey Miyake, the groundbreaking Japanese designer known for his innovative pleats, died in early August. But there’s a connection nonetheless. Miyake’s pleats promised freedom of movement and, while they’re entirely different, so do Abe’s. “I really wanted to express a sense of freedom, and an attitude of positivity and joy,” she said after the show. Abe began her career as a pattern-maker, and it explains her very focused approach. Every category got the pleat treatment, from crisp black and white tailoring to an army surplus MA-1 jacket to soft leather tank dresses. The result was a collection of A-line shapes with the fluidity that she was after, even when it was reined in with a more structured element, like the asymmetric mini layered over a short shirt-dress. Also A-line: most of the sleeves. Abe split jacket arms down the seams and designed shirt sleeves to extend past the fingertips; the models wore them pushed up, which created pooling volumes around the wrists. The room was full of women in Sacai coats, which are distinctive without yielding any sense of practicality. This season’s entry into the canon was a smartly cut trench with exterior pockets attached to its belt and those dramatic split sleeves.

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1. The Hadids brought the noughties nostalgia full circle: Gigi in a sculpted cargo suit that echoed McCartney’s Savile Row days; Bella in a shrunken vest and low-riding trousers with rhinestone-encrusted cut-outs around the hips that would have had Shakira circa Whenever, Wherever spilling kisses like a fountain. Right now, there’s no bigger gold vein in youth-oriented fashion than Y2K dressing. While at Chloé, McCartney’s influence on the era was so vast that you might wonder why the brand’s current custodian, Gabriela Hearst, hasn’t mined those archives already. Asked if it feels weird to see her own work revived in such a big way, McCartney sighed. “It makes me feel extremely old! My daughter, who’s 15, all she does now is go into my closet and take all my original things. And I’m like, ‘Oh, but I make similar things now.’ She’s not interested. She just wants the ’90s.” Nostalgia wasn’t, however, the driving force behind McCartney’s choice to adapt and reissue these pieces. The Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara was. She used his depictions of children as motifs on garments, and focused the collection around his slogan, “Change the History.” “I want to look back at my history and redefine where I started and where I am now and what the next Stella looks like,” said McCartney, explaining her trip down memory lane. For her, of course, that transition has everything to do with sustainability. She re-evoked the 2000s through the finest technology the 2020s have to offer: garments in regenerative bio-diverse cotton that “encourages nature”; shoes in plant-based materials like faux leather made out of grape skins; bags in mycelium mushroom leather; and rhinestone pieces created without animal glues and solvents. In a season that’s seen Dolce & Gabbana reviving their Y2K archives with the help of Kim Kardashian, and the likes of Versace and Fendi taking the era’s low-slung trousers to new gravities, McCartney’s reenergizing of the fashion history she helped shape in such a big way felt both ethically and epically right.
2. “There was this wonderful atmosphere,” he told my colleague Laird Borrelli-Persson when tonight’s runway show was announced. “Everybody works together, so it’s been an amazing experience.” Against a backdrop of paintings by the Aboriginal Australian artist Mirdidingkingathi Juwarnda Sally Gabori, the collection leaned less Alber than it did Lutz. In that, it wasn’t dissimilar from the offerings by Magugu and Manas. “It’s very much what I like,” said Huelle, who is a designer wardrobe builder, not a trend chaser. “But it’s also more glamorous and a little more sexy.” Huelle upcycles denim, and denim was a foundational element here, only it was a dark rinse and not pre-worn. Tailoring is another throughline. The cropped vest in his own collection and in this AZ Factory offering are twins, if not identical, then fraternal. At home Huelle has been experimenting with puffed taffeta volumes on the sleeves of jersey tees. At AZF, he dressed up body-con dresses with ruffled rings that encircled the torso, one in black-on-black and the other in a floral camo that was the lineup’s hero print, also appearing on robe coats and an off-the-shoulder trapeze dress. The sequin pants looked like a good time; ditto the crystalized jeans styled with a denim T-shirt. Staying true to the Amigo concept, Huelle came out for a victory lap with members of the AZ Factory team.
3. At the moment this Givenchy show was due to start in the Jardin des Plantes—outdoors—it was raining in a concerted and highly depressing manner. Luckily Valentino had started so late, and, thanks to footwear dramas, gone on so long, that the fashion traffic jam was around 30 minutes late squeezing its way to this show. The rain calmed as we crawled onwards. What had seemed an imminent catastrophe was scaled down by the time we arrived to mere potentially preventable disaster. The set-up was a runway and benches made of cork. We wiped them down and sat on our umbrellas to avoid getting soaked unmentionables. You were better off wearing dark pants—that cork stained. By the time the first models emerged there was blue above. A fascinating piece in the New York Times had already created an anticipatory contextualization for what was a radical shift under Matthew Williams. He’d brought in Carine Roitfeld—no longer working with MaxMara—as a stylist and shifted the emphasis of what that newspaper’s writer Jessica Testa inferred was a house with no distinct codes. But was that so? What we got was a sandwich fashioned from couture flavored bread—delicate, feminine, sometimes derivative and a little processed—that was filled with a highly-flavored LA mayonnaise. The ruching on the opening, excellent dresses, was an Hubert staple. The boucle jackets, conversely, did not belong here: this was a brazen sample to drop. During one weird moment the show transitioned to Williams’s home territory of streetwear infused contemporaneousness—great denim, slouchy combats, all of that—just as the soundtrack segued into Fleetwood Mac’s Everywhere; the most vanilla track one could ever imagine this highly progressive music-lover choosing. I looked across the runway and noticed that Ye was tapping the toes of his Balenciaga gumboots in time. Things were getting weird. The closing phase was rather magnificent, although the party was often at the back. A red dress featured a gorgeous swooping rear hemline that curved from the shoulder to sacrum. Another dress was tied up at the back in a series of bows: simple but lovely. These, Williams said afterwards, were part of a series of archival looks that he and Roitfeld had dug up from the archives and reworked. So this is a house with codes, after all. Was Willams losing his mind when that storm came in? He feigned calm, saying: “I was thinking that their skin would look beautiful with the water on it. And the liquid in the hair… it would look incredible. And that it would be more dramatic in the rain.” He added of Roitfeld’s involvement: “She understands the house and the Parisian woman. So we built the collection together—it’s a dialogue between us. The beautiful thing about the brand is that it speaks to different women. It’s good to speak to everybody.” Even if the risk in trying to speak to everyone is that you end up connecting with no-one. However Williams, I suspect, could still untie the knotty problem that is Givenchy. As the Times of New York pitched it, he just needs time. But will he get it?

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The Sacai collection began with a hybridized tuxedo-shirt combination, the pleats of the black jacket and white button-down intermingling at their hems. It was worn with a kicky pair of fitted pleated pants, more like leggings than trousers, that opened into flares a few inches north of the ankles. As the model passed, the silhouette got a “wow, that’s great,” from a seatmate. No small feat on the penultimate day of fashion month. Pleats are the main event at Sacai this season. Designer Chitose Abe’s collection was in progress long before Issey Miyake, the groundbreaking Japanese designer known for his innovative pleats, died in early August. But there’s a connection nonetheless. Miyake’s pleats promised freedom of movement and, while they’re entirely different, so do Abe’s. “I really wanted to express a sense of freedom, and an attitude of positivity and joy,” she said after the show. Abe began her career as a pattern-maker, and it explains her very focused approach. Every category got the pleat treatment, from crisp black and white tailoring to an army surplus MA-1 jacket to soft leather tank dresses. The result was a collection of A-line shapes with the fluidity that she was after, even when it was reined in with a more structured element, like the asymmetric mini layered over a short shirt-dress. Also A-line: most of the sleeves. Abe split jacket arms down the seams and designed shirt sleeves to extend past the fingertips; the models wore them pushed up, which created pooling volumes around the wrists. The room was full of women in Sacai coats, which are distinctive without yielding any sense of practicality. This season’s entry into the canon was a smartly cut trench with exterior pockets attached to its belt and those dramatic split sleeves.

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