June 5, 2023
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Related Articles: “To me, the body says what words cannot,” Martha Graham, the revered, radical American modern dancer and choreographer, once said. It wouldn’t be crazy to think that’s the kind of statement Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent would concur with. His work for the house has always exalted a corporeal glory; his own view of physicality—strong, celebratory, unapologetic—and the legacy of the house merged to be totally in sync. Graham’s and Vaccarello’s orbits surprisingly spun into each other at his spring 2023 show, which was staged in the almost dreamlike Parisian setting of a grand paved garden replete with a cascading fountain that Marcel Carné would have been thrilled to have filmed upon. (The set was built especially for the show, sweeping staircases, perfectly laid flagstones, and all.) The result: a quietly epic examination of what happens when you both reveal and conceal the body—and the frisson you generate when you make your look long, lean, and loaded with attitude. Backstage, just before the show, Vaccarello mentioned that he’d been looking at the groundbreaking way that Graham dressed her company in tubular dresses for her 1930 production Lamentation, costuming which audaciously emphasized every bit of physical agility from her dancers. Vaccarello first discovered Graham, he said laughing, by being a fan of Madonna’s in the 1990s, when the Material Girl had been busy (rightly) singing Graham’s praises to the sky. But for spring Vaccarello looked back a decade earlier to YSL’s past—the mid-’80s days when models strode those old-school elevated podiums in Monsieur Saint Laurent’s hooded, draped capuche dresses.

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  1. Beckham’s lifelong fashion education has clearly taught her a thing or two about subversion. If she’s demonstrated her taste for the “wrong” and “weird” before, this collection flexed a side to her practice that felt like virgin soil. Next to coats with edges cut to reveal their construction and trompe l’oeil leather jackets with the imprint of lapels, tailored jackets had been deconstructed at the back and reduced to their core frame, exposing the naked body. It was an intelligent (and quite Belgian) way of cutting that suited Beckham’s codes and pushed her into a game played by the big guys. “I can’t believe it’s finally happening. I’m very proud of where we’ve come,” she said of her Paris adventure. “With this show, I have enjoyed every single step of the way. When you think of everything we’ve been through, to be doing a show in Paris as an independent brand, it’s a really big deal. It feels like a real moment.” Beckham’s French fashion debut was an ambitious, dramatic, and quite sexual experience, which spoke volumes of her excitement for fashion. And on the day-to-day hamster wheel of Fashion Week, dedication like that is really quite rare.
  2. During the course of the show, he started to introduce bright saturated colors as a contrast—electric blue, acid green, emerald green—which looked at their most dazzling when deployed for the dream-it-and-we-can-make-it technical marvel of his pleated sequin pieces, such as a shrug it on coat, or a sweeping floor-length backless evening dress. (How often does one see pleated sequins, particularly when the folds run on the bias? Like, never. Difficult to do doesn’t even begin to describe it.) Of course, what was going on here wasn’t some old school narrative of a shift from one trend to another: Nothing so first degree. What Piccioli has triumphed at these past few years is the way he has challenged himself, the house he oversees, and the industry itself, to keep thinking differently, respectfully, democratically. (Consider how, at the end of his show, he led the models out onto the street, so the crowds outside could see the collection.) He has proven himself to be a particularly sensitive and thoughtful protagonist. His spring collection was dubbed Unboxing, as in thinking out of the…. Such as: Refuting the notion he could only work with uberstar models. The cast here was almost all unknowns, some of whom had never walked a show before; the better, Piccioli thought, for the audience to focus on who they are as individuals and not on their status in the industry. (Which might have explained why a few found the heels tricky.) Or challenging the orthodoxy of fashion speak, in this case, the term minimalism. Backstage, Piccioli laughed at the idea that sequins couldn’t be thought of as minimal. For him, he said, it all came down to the idea of how you designed to be reductive without taking away. Being behind the scenes gave another insight into what was going on here. Pinned up above a moodboard was a quote from Richard Avedon (Piccioli had recently visited the late photographer’s ongoing retrospective in Milan.) “My photographs don’t go below the surface… I have great faith in surfaces. A good one is full of clues,” Avedon said. In other words, in Piccioli’s view, a designer can only give their vision. The rest of us have the right to interpret what he presents, to look further and deeper, in whatever way we like.
  3. After Burberry canceled its original presentation during London Fashion Week out of respect for the national mourning period that followed the death of the Queen, Tisci squeezed the show in on the Monday between Milan and Paris. Presented in a naked warehouse in Bermondsey—the London Contemporary Orchestra lined up in the middle of the space—it unfolded in complete silence before the soprano opera singer Nadine Sierra broke out in a poignant aria. It wasn’t until the finale that the orchestra joined in. “It was a moment of respect. She was the queen of the world—every country respected her,” Tisci said. “In England, you always have this contrast: the street and the royalty. And I think today was that,” he added. Those were pretty much the words Tisci used to describe his first show for Burberry back in September 2018. If it’s something of a cliché, his view of British culture has clearly broadened since then. Compared to his debut show, this collection offered a less literal and more nuanced approach to its subject matter, and portrayed it through garment construction that has assumed a much more complex nature in the four years he has spent at the house. Rather than looking at the general characteristics of England, he now looks at corners of British society that resonate with his own experiences and aesthetic. “I’m very happy because I’ve found myself, and I find it very respectful for Burberry,” he said. “It’s not ticking a box, but elaborating on what Burberry has been famous for, for so long: the check, the trench coat, the car coat, and a lot of bags. At the moment our bags are doing well, which is nice to support.” He presented them alongside trademarks from his career pre-Burberry: shark earrings and crown-of-thorns necklaces; his own iconographic stamps now embedded in the genetics of Burberry forever.

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“To me, the body says what words cannot,” Martha Graham, the revered, radical American modern dancer and choreographer, once said. It wouldn’t be crazy to think that’s the kind of statement Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent would concur with. His work for the house has always exalted a corporeal glory; his own view of physicality—strong, celebratory, unapologetic—and the legacy of the house merged to be totally in sync. Graham’s and Vaccarello’s orbits surprisingly spun into each other at his spring 2023 show, which was staged in the almost dreamlike Parisian setting of a grand paved garden replete with a cascading fountain that Marcel Carné would have been thrilled to have filmed upon. (The set was built especially for the show, sweeping staircases, perfectly laid flagstones, and all.) The result: a quietly epic examination of what happens when you both reveal and conceal the body—and the frisson you generate when you make your look long, lean, and loaded with attitude. Backstage, just before the show, Vaccarello mentioned that he’d been looking at the groundbreaking way that Graham dressed her company in tubular dresses for her 1930 production Lamentation, costuming which audaciously emphasized every bit of physical agility from her dancers. Vaccarello first discovered Graham, he said laughing, by being a fan of Madonna’s in the 1990s, when the Material Girl had been busy (rightly) singing Graham’s praises to the sky. But for spring Vaccarello looked back a decade earlier to YSL’s past—the mid-’80s days when models strode those old-school elevated podiums in Monsieur Saint Laurent’s hooded, draped capuche dresses.

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