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Related Articles: “There was this wonderful atmosphere,” he told my colleague Laird Borrelli-Persson when tonight’s runway show was announced. “Everybody works together, so it’s been an amazing experience.” Against a backdrop of paintings by the Aboriginal Australian artist Mirdidingkingathi Juwarnda Sally Gabori, the collection leaned less Alber than it did Lutz. In that, it wasn’t dissimilar from the offerings by Magugu and Manas. “It’s very much what I like,” said Huelle, who is a designer wardrobe builder, not a trend chaser. “But it’s also more glamorous and a little more sexy.” Huelle upcycles denim, and denim was a foundational element here, only it was a dark rinse and not pre-worn. Tailoring is another throughline. The cropped vest in his own collection and in this AZ Factory offering are twins, if not identical, then fraternal. At home Huelle has been experimenting with puffed taffeta volumes on the sleeves of jersey tees. At AZF, he dressed up body-con dresses with ruffled rings that encircled the torso, one in black-on-black and the other in a floral camo that was the lineup’s hero print, also appearing on robe coats and an off-the-shoulder trapeze dress. The sequin pants looked like a good time; ditto the crystalized jeans styled with a denim T-shirt. Staying true to the Amigo concept, Huelle came out for a victory lap with members of the AZ Factory team.
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- The Sacai collection began with a hybridized tuxedo-shirt combination, the pleats of the black jacket and white button-down intermingling at their hems. It was worn with a kicky pair of fitted pleated pants, more like leggings than trousers, that opened into flares a few inches north of the ankles. As the model passed, the silhouette got a “wow, that’s great,” from a seatmate. No small feat on the penultimate day of fashion month. Pleats are the main event at Sacai this season. Designer Chitose Abe’s collection was in progress long before Issey Miyake, the groundbreaking Japanese designer known for his innovative pleats, died in early August. But there’s a connection nonetheless. Miyake’s pleats promised freedom of movement and, while they’re entirely different, so do Abe’s. “I really wanted to express a sense of freedom, and an attitude of positivity and joy,” she said after the show. Abe began her career as a pattern-maker, and it explains her very focused approach. Every category got the pleat treatment, from crisp black and white tailoring to an army surplus MA-1 jacket to soft leather tank dresses. The result was a collection of A-line shapes with the fluidity that she was after, even when it was reined in with a more structured element, like the asymmetric mini layered over a short shirt-dress. Also A-line: most of the sleeves. Abe split jacket arms down the seams and designed shirt sleeves to extend past the fingertips; the models wore them pushed up, which created pooling volumes around the wrists. The room was full of women in Sacai coats, which are distinctive without yielding any sense of practicality. This season’s entry into the canon was a smartly cut trench with exterior pockets attached to its belt and those dramatic split sleeves.
- A leather teddy was laser-cut like lace and embellished with thousands of little metal studs. This season’s prints combined tropical flowers, zebra stripes, and the label’s all-caps logo on repeat. Collaged together on soft-cut slip dresses with handkerchief hems worn on top of boyish cargo pants (a recurring silhouette this season), they vaguely evoked Biba, just this side of psychedelic. This section included a couple pairs of jeans. Shredded in precise diamond patterns, this was not your average denim, but it was a whole lot more casual than anything Versace has put on the runway lately, a sign of Donatella’s ambition to expand and diversify her offering. Before the end, the collection moved through the black-to-bright cycle again. Mariacarla’s black suit and sheer shirtdress mid-layer were sharp. The baby dolls, garters, and lace veils in pink, purple, and acid yellow looked torn from Madonna’s “Like a Virgin”–era playbook via Stephanie Seymour in “November Rain.” For the finale, Versace had another pop-culture blast from the past, none other than Paris Hilton in pink chain mail. Rebels of all kinds welcome here.
- (Paris, it has to be said, is enraptured with this look; in the most extreme examples, seen on other designers’ runways, nothing will say spring 2023 like having one knee brazenly flaunting itself, the other having taken a season-long sabbatical by hiding behind fabric, a sartorial vow of silence.) Interestingly (and another little narrative of note from Paris these past days) this was another spring collection heavy on, well, heavier things. It was all part, Hwang said, of thinking about those earlier deliveries, when the sun, like that knee, might need quite a bit of coaxing to come out. These were some of the best pieces here: A fantastic cuddly toy of a fur, made up of upcycled panels of the faux fluffy stuff, or a really rather chic coat, which had been quilted inside, so that the pattern of the padding ‘bled’ through to the surface; it was quietly intriguing and effective both from a practical and decorative point of view. Maybe that’s what Hwang meant when he was talking about the rational and the irrational. If so, here’s another good example: Those undulating bands on his skirts, which could be fastened or unfastened via a series of hook and eye fastenings. All done up, those hooks make for an elegantly graphic embellishment. But start unhooking, letting the panel fall to reveal the body underneath. Well, then you’re in the realms of freeing your imagination as much as the designer who created the skirt you’d be wearing.
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Surf culture and beach life continually fascinate the fun-loving Dean and Dan Caten. But why surf and not, say, tennis or soccer or just plain old swimming? “Because surf is sexier, cooler, hotter,” they said backstage before their spring show. “It’s about freedom, strength, being in the ocean. There’s lots of mystique around it—ideas and lifestyle, images, music, a whole lotta culture. Very inspiring.” They enjoy surfing when in Mykonos, which just adds to their love affair with the swells. Surfers have a deceptively laid-back aesthetic, as they’re actually quite fastidious about their looks. For spring, the Catens went for a surfer girl who manages the layered styling to a hilt, elevating it to an effortless fashion form as easy as a lazy suntanning session on the beach. Transparencies were played out to express the leggerezza, that lightness of mood the designers wanted to convey. Tulle mesh, PVC, chiffon, filmy lace, and a whole panoply of sexy sheer fabrics were turned into flares, wrap skirts, leggings, blazers, and XXXL board shorts juxtaposed in an apparently haphazard jumble. The silhouette was kept lean and unfussy despite the riotous styling. Bright colors and shiny liquid surfaces (sequins, glazed nylon, stretch satin) had a tonic, vital vibe, tying the layered lineup of individual pieces into a cohesive mash-up—which, while sounding oxymoronic, gives credit to the Catens’ bravura in mastering the art of orderly, neat, sexy chaos.
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