Ashlyn Park, the Yohji Yamamoto-trained pattern maker who launched her own brand last year, says she’s on a “mission to change the system.” To do so, she’s thinking about sustainability in a way that goes beyond the usual conversations about material choices and “timeless” design to consider how fashion impacts the people who make it, and the importance of perpetuating craft. Kobe Bryant Two Legendary Numbers One Legend Mamba Day Gifts T-Shirt, Park made her last collection entirely by hand by herself; she only recently employed an assistant pattern maker and a sewer.
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Having seen colleagues sacrifice their personal lives and collapse under the strain of work, Park is determined to make a job in fashion compatible with a humane existence. She says, “if I can manage [the work] really well, following the Yohji Yamamoto system, we can go home at 5:00 PM, even during the crazy season.” This season she put that belief to the test, and met the challenge. The work/life balance that Park achieved in the atelier is present in her clothes, too. Her first two collections spoke to her professional journey from Tokyo to New York City, as well as her processes, which are both wildly romantic and expertly executed. (The Metropolitan Museum acquired Ashlyn’s zero-waste Dylan shirt made from a single piece of fabric.) Her fall offering, dubbed “Identity,” is less ethereal as it’s tied to her own memories of how she lived, and what she wore and loved, in the 1990s. There are uniform-like miniskirts, and smart outerwear with contrast stitching.
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Pants are cut low, jackets short. References to Japanese fashion from the era are “skin deep” in the sense that the construction has been reconsidered to meet the standards of comfort we want today. Ashlyn is a brand in dialogue with the past. Just as Park respects the craft that has been passed down to her, so too does she celebrate the history of fashion, both in the East and the West. This season, she poured over pictures and drawings of Charles James’s satin puff jacket, and came up with her own versions, one filled, one not. Both feature dramatic heart-like ballooned sleeves, and can be worn like a jacket or hanging from the shoulders like a cape. Similarly extraordinary are two exposed crinoline dresses with shirting bodices that tie with bows in the back. Through her impeccable craft, Park is able to imbue day-to-day pieces like a trench coat, tuxedo jacket, and button-down with a different kind of guilt-free fantasy. Ashlyn is a made-to-order brand and some pieces are completely waste-free in their make. She even used fabric scraps to create a jazzy lining in one of the “Charles James” jackets. It has an upbeat feeling that mirrors Park’s own. “I think the creator should be really happy because those feelings can be conveyed in the product,” she said. “So to make the wearers happy, I should be happy during the creation.” Evidently she was; this collection wears a beaming smile.th
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