Kaiteez - Stranger Things x Gravity Falls Poster Canvas

Kneeling on the floor backstage at his Sorbonne venue, Rhuigi Villaseñor frayed the white denim in the distressed knee of a white jean worn below a striped button-up and red varsity jacket, discreetly unlettered. Stranger Things x Gravity Falls Poster Canvas, “You cool?” he asked the model. “Very cool!” the model replied. Three years after his Paris Fashion Week debut in June 2019, Villaseñor’s Rhude returned to fashion’s capital with a post-hiatus leap forward of a collection. It blended a whole bunch of specifics—including Rhude’s own early ironically de-corporatized tobacco and carmaker codes, the illusive preppiness of Abercrombie & Fitch, and the Euro-luxe of Bally, the house for which he will show his first collection in September—with wider influences too. You could perhaps discern elements of Hedi Slimane’s so-memorable YSL California suites—albeit with a much more livable silhouette—while remembering that Villaseñor was actually raised in California.

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House of the Dragon Game of Thrones Poster Canvas

The manner in which preppy/anglo codes—cricket knits, evening wear, regatta stripe—were assimilated and luxurified through a freshly specific cultural prism was discernibly Lauren-esque. When a cigar-brown suit cut with nailed-on Riviera gigolo sleekness came out accessorized by Rhude boxer shorts pulled north of the pants and a basketball vest instead of a shirt beneath you were seeing worlds collide, with positive impact. Villaseñor said the collection was entitled New Money and engaged with pushing forward that endless friction between perceived arriviste and elite. He added: “I think once we understand the intention behind the word ‘streetwear’ and why it’s even used as a derogatory term it will just evolve to another thing. For me, it’s like, I make clothes that people want to wear and this is what I want to make. And people wear them in the streets. Sorry!” Self-deprecatingly he added that this show was held here because “I’m still a student of the game.” That, though, was false modesty. This was one of the most accomplished, thoughtful, and attractive engagements with the mainstream luxury narrative in menswear we have seen for several seasons—and it was all the more impressive for being produced by an independent brand outside the gravitational pull of Parisian multi-brand conglomerates. It felt like a subtle but significant shift. Rhude is awakening.

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