June 2, 2023

When she wasn’t reaching into her archival collection, she used military camouflage, vintage patches, suede, and other deadstock fabrics to create figure-hugging bustier tops, bell bottoms, and effortless red carpet-ready gowns. “Camo you wear to fit in, San Diego Padres Projected Starting Lineup Home Decor Poster Canvas, the Nicole Miller girl wears it to stand out,” explained Miller at a recent appointment, accompanied by her assistant. In the past, her resort collections would feature swimsuits and beach-ready terry cover-ups, but now Miller’s focus is on a universal wardrobe. “My clothing is seasonless, [and] you can wear [it] year-round.” She adds, “The seasons don’t really change now, and it’s kind of all one season.”

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Nicole Miller has been in business for almost 40 years — and since at least the ‘90s she’s been in the business of dressing cool girls like Lindsay Lohan and Kate Moss, so it may come as a surprise to some that she began her label with men’s ties. With the milestone anniversary coming up in September, she has been in a reflective mood, having recently rediscovered her immense archival collection of ties after a recent move. The ties, which ranged in hues of browns, beiges, and greens, inspired a camouflage-influenced collection. She patchworked them together into tank tops and midi dresses, using a similar technique to the one she explored in her fall 2022 collection.

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