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Related Articles: And just like that, boom! Everything changed. Last March, Pierpaolo Piccioli sent out a Valentino collection that included a 48-look homage to the power of fuchsia, and the audience at his show today had clearly got the memo and dressed accordingly. Just about everywhere you looked, that color reigned supreme on clients and celebs alike, though none looked as major in it (and I will brook no argument on this) as Erykah Badu, who worked it from the tip of her towering stovepipe hat to the trailing hem of her feathered coat. (Even more major: The way Ms. Badu adorably bobbed up and down in her seat, phone in hand, primed to film Piccioli’s appearance on the runway at the end of his show the minute he popped out from backstage.) So there was every eye in the room training itself on Piccioli’s opening salvo for next spring, and what did we get? No more Think Pink, that’s for sure. Instead, a caped dress in the palest of beiges that was graphically emblazoned with the house’s V logo. The marque was over absolutely everything, including the gloved bodysuit worn under the dress (silky knit body-suiting, designed to counteract the diaphanous nature of his fabrics and make women feel more comfortable about wearing such gauzy materials, was a constant refrain here). It was even painted across the model’s face, an incredible effect courtesy of the deft hand (and ceaseless imagination) of Pat McGrath. That was just the start. Piccoli focused his look on mostly beautifully cut flowing, undulating dresses, short or long, some scissored away at the waist (inspired by the slashed canvases of artist Lucio Fontana) and soft suiting that was androgynous with or without the feathery trims, in myriad shades of ivory, beige and brown, his celebration of the beauty of every skin tone.
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- But it’s also due to the rigor with which he collaborates with suppliers, many in Japan’s Tohoku, Hokuriku and Kanto regions, whom he knows from his Miyake days designing menswear. His willingness to challenge them on everything from switching to renewable energy sources to cutting down on water consumption is admirable—and documented in detail on CFCL’s website. For spring, his fifth collection, Takahashi wanted to temper his cocooning silhouettes and zingy colors to focus on elegance. “Knitwear has a history of casual wear, it’s not used for suits or evening dress,” he said. “So for our first presentation for PFW, I was thinking about authentic elegance. I was looking at Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking. But I wanted to combine elegant eveningwear with comfort.” A slim-cut double-faced knit blazer in black with a gentle peplum and a navy lining fit the bill, as did cupro-recycled-polyester mix trousers with the pleat sewn in. Elsewhere, Takahashi has been thinking about science fiction, and the futuristic aesthetic of Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. Body-skimming and bell-shaped dress styles were reworked in sheer knit with a dry touch, intended to be layered over wide-leg pants and skirts. Delicate peplum-flared cardigans were paired with flared trousers. In accessories, woven pouch bags worn as wristlets have also proved popular and were reworked for spring in cobalt blue and bubblegum pink. In October, Takahashi will open his brand’s first store in Tokyo, with a second planned for next year. He already has over 100 doors in Japan, and has his sights set on expansion in Korea, Vietnam and China, as well as Paris. “People feel a sympathy with our clothes, because they are made for urban life,” Takahashi said. “Not so many brands focus on function—wrinkle-resistance, quick-dry, easy to wash and care for—as well as elegance. But it’s just the beginning.”
- On some looks you could see the fossilized traces of “normal” pieces—a biker here, a gown there—but all were distended and distorted and blown up or reduced via twists and aggregations of imagination. This was not regular sizing either, Salomon-collab sneakers apart. The pieces were dark embraces. Some of the models wore headpieces in folded card flowers or apparently hodgepodge steampunk-ish assemblages, half-helmet, half-crown. Created under a briefing by Gary Card and Valériane Venance, these looked to resemble virgin crants, the maiden’s garlands in which young, prematurely deceased women were buried in pre-Reformation England. They were chilling. In look 12 that sinister aspect washed against the buoying impression of the cloth-clad shapes below that appeared to urge the wearer up again. On a possibly boring personal note, watching and then reviewing this collection today has made me flash back to my earliest seasons, eons ago, when I used to feel like a nervous fraud at every show I attended. In the absence of Sarah Mower for a season (she’s at a happy family event), I was handed a shot at Comme, and it revived that gnawing question that nagged me back then: What gives me the right to have an opinion about this? I was gripped by the same impostor syndrome that Edward Enninful (of all nonimpostors) describes so surprisingly and finely in his autobiography. And I guess the answer is, if you don’t feel like an impostor sometimes, then you probably shouldn’t be here at all.
- Optimism is a word we’ve heard over and over again this season. With rare exceptions designers have put on their blinders and decided it’s their job to help us shrug off the world’s sorrows and shop our despair away. Not Balenciaga’s Demna. Rising inequality, the return of fascism, the very real threat of nuclear war. He laid it all out at his post-apocalyptic show today, trying, I think, to shake us awake. Backstage he called the show a companion piece to last season. When snow melts it turns to mud, and there were literally tons of mud today, piled up at the sides of the stadium space, and dug out like bomb craters in the center, staged by the Spanish artist Santiago Sierra. The raw odeur of decomposition, a custom-made scent by Demna’s frequent collaborator Sissel Tolaas, blasted us in the face. Kanye West opened the show in a tactical jacket and leather pants with reinforced knees, military garb topped off with a baseball cap and a logo mouthguard. The ragtag band that followed was rough around the edges to say the least, their faces beat-up (hours in the makeup chair) and their clothes treated to look old and beat-up too (requiring a “couple of days” more than making pristine luxury, Demna said). Some carried bags made from stuffed animals that looked like they’d been through a war. When the 75 models made their circuit on the wet track, dirt splashed their bare ankles and soaked their hems, the 3-D printed Dutch clogs being no match for the mud.
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The usual pandemonium outside the Dolce & Gabbana show was cranked up to 11 this afternoon. Three days ago, Kim Kardashian touched down in Milan and posted a pic of herself disembarking a PJ with the hashtags #CiaoKim and #DolceGabbana. The designers have been linked to the Kardashians since this past May, when they wardrobed Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker’s wedding in Portofino. At a press conference this morning, Kim said that today’s collaboration came about when Dolce and Gabbana discovered that the clotheshorse brought her own collection of vintage D&G to the nuptials, including “some pieces that even they didn’t have in their own archives.” The proposal went something like this: Kim would act as curator, selecting pieces from past collections, specifically the 20-year period between 1987 and 2007 (conveniently spanning the Y2K years that are trending at the moment), and the designers would rework those pieces for today, but subtly, so that the links between then and now are obvious enough for the social media audience, where so much of fashion communication plays out in 2022. The benefits for Dolce & Gabbana are plenty. The Kardashian-Jenners in attendance today boast a combined 652 million followers. As for Kim, hooking up with Dolce & Gabbana doesn’t just burnish her high-fashion image, but thanks to the internet’s capacity to flatten time, it somehow also stretches her influence. She became a household name in 2007 when Keeping Up With the Kardashians began airing, but with this partnership she’s put her stamp on two extra decades. Damn, she’s good at the fame game. Explaining her affinity for the brand at the press conference, Kim said, “Yes, I have this futuristic alien Barbie personality, which I like. But in my soul I feel very sensual Italian mob wife at the same time. I don’t know if that’s appropriate to say.” Of course, Dolce & Gabbana has worked the sensual Italian wife trope to its own ends, as editorials and ad campaigns of D&G favorites from back in the day—including Eva Herzigova and Helena Christensen, who sat in the front row—attest. On the runway, corsets, wiggle dresses, and lingerie sets were stitched with labels at the hip or wrist identifying the year they were first presented. At the same time, other pieces served Kim’s own interests. “It’s very Skims-y,” a seatmate said, nodding at a stretch-jersey number circa 1990 and a new one made in its image. For those of you living under a rock, Skims is Kim’s $3.2 billion shapewear brand. Presumably, all of this is future content for Hulu’s The Kardashians show, too; season two premiered a couple of nights ago. All the top fashion brands are getting into the entertainment business. Dolce & Gabbana has always been an early adopter. With Kim’s help it just raised the stakes.
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