June 2, 2023
Kylian Mbappe Becomes PSG All Time Leading Goalscorer Shirt

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Related Articles: After four weeks of late nights and early starts, the fashion pack could be forgiven for power napping as they waited for a show to start on a Sunday afternoon. The temptation was even greater at Ottolinger, where seating comprised a giant tessellated pile of mattresses. That is, until the techno started pumping. Backstage, designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient explained they wanted guests to feel as if they were waking up and heading out into the world full of GIF-y, girl-bossy ebullience. “It’s like in the morning when there’s really warm light, and you have a good feeling about the day. You start the day upbeat, you go off and you sign a deal—it’s not an average day; it’s a really good day,” said Gadient with a laugh. If it took a little creative license for this writer to imagine inking a business deal in the show’s opening look—a deconstructed belt–meets–bra top whose straps covered the nipples and little else, paired with low-slung leather-look trousers made from recycled polyester—the audience didn’t share such prudishness. Gen Z’s love of near nudity knows no bounds, and the fan base that lounged on the mattresses wearing skin-baring looks from the Berlin-based label would think nothing of wearing a crop top to talk shop. The designers recently launched a pre-collection that they said had allowed them to tackle more conceptual ideas in their runway shows. No longer beholden to showing denim and mesh dresses, which are their big commercial hits, this freed them up to present deconstructed biker jackets and skintight bodysuits. Ironically, though, the strongest pieces were arguably the most commercial, especially the dresses that draped and hugged the body with some rubbery-looking embellishments. Dipping items in rubber is a trait that reads recognizably Ottolinger: The punked-up court shoes, which saw a classic pump wrapped in a futuristic rubber-like casing, were as covetable as the diamanté jewelry dipped in brightly colored rubber that currently sells well on the label’s website. They’d do well to continue hammering home those codes as the Y2K trend keeps rolling and numerous other labels look to replicate their success with the sexy and the skintight.

Amazing Kylian Mbappe Becomes PSG All Time Leading Goalscorer Shirt

  1. Contrary to popular opinion, fashion people do eat—at least the many who attended Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s debut runway show in Paris did. Each seat held a napkin and fork; at the end of the runway was a many-tiered white chocolate cake that models and guests tucked into postshow, some with the provided utensils, others with their fingers. Why cake? “Well, I think it’s time to celebrate this way of working [with a lot of handcraft using existing materials] instead of just seeing the industry as a business,” said Larsson. “I think fashion brings joy—that’s why you start doing it, so I really want to bring this feeling back. I’m also very proud that we are actually doing this and that we spend so much time doing this together, our small team, so the cake is just a celebration for the collection.” Though she’s just three seasons into her career, the spring lineup looked back to what had come before. Woven belts returned, but this time they were used to create a “lady” dress with hourglass curves. Its enticing undulations stood in contrast to the opening look, made of men’s leather shoe uppers that had a solidity that commanded the body to conform to its shape. Another deconstruction of masculinity came in the form of a reworked and waxed pinstripe skirt suit. As Larsson is interacting with vintage garments, it’s not surprising that time is a recurrent theme in her work.
  2. Contrary to popular opinion, fashion people do eat—at least the many who attended Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s debut runway show in Paris did. Each seat held a napkin and fork; at the end of the runway was a many-tiered white chocolate cake that models and guests tucked into postshow, some with the provided utensils, others with their fingers. Why cake? “Well, I think it’s time to celebrate this way of working [with a lot of handcraft using existing materials] instead of just seeing the industry as a business,” said Larsson. “I think fashion brings joy—that’s why you start doing it, so I really want to bring this feeling back. I’m also very proud that we are actually doing this and that we spend so much time doing this together, our small team, so the cake is just a celebration for the collection.” Though she’s just three seasons into her career, the spring lineup looked back to what had come before. Woven belts returned, but this time they were used to create a “lady” dress with hourglass curves. Its enticing undulations stood in contrast to the opening look, made of men’s leather shoe uppers that had a solidity that commanded the body to conform to its shape. Another deconstruction of masculinity came in the form of a reworked and waxed pinstripe skirt suit. As Larsson is interacting with vintage garments, it’s not surprising that time is a recurrent theme in her work.
  3. On some looks you could see the fossilized traces of “normal” pieces—a biker here, a gown there—but all were distended and distorted and blown up or reduced via twists and aggregations of imagination. This was not regular sizing either, Salomon-collab sneakers apart. The pieces were dark embraces. Some of the models wore headpieces in folded card flowers or apparently hodgepodge steampunk-ish assemblages, half-helmet, half-crown. Created under a briefing by Gary Card and Valériane Venance, these looked to resemble virgin crants, the maiden’s garlands in which young, prematurely deceased women were buried in pre-Reformation England. They were chilling. In look 12 that sinister aspect washed against the buoying impression of the cloth-clad shapes below that appeared to urge the wearer up again. On a possibly boring personal note, watching and then reviewing this collection today has made me flash back to my earliest seasons, eons ago, when I used to feel like a nervous fraud at every show I attended. In the absence of Sarah Mower for a season (she’s at a happy family event), I was handed a shot at Comme, and it revived that gnawing question that nagged me back then: What gives me the right to have an opinion about this? I was gripped by the same impostor syndrome that Edward Enninful (of all nonimpostors) describes so surprisingly and finely in his autobiography. And I guess the answer is, if you don’t feel like an impostor sometimes, then you probably shouldn’t be here at all.

Emotional Kylian Mbappe Becomes PSG All Time Leading Goalscorer Shirt

They were visions of languid elegance, dressed to the nines with myriad jeweled accessories, the maquillage as immaculate as the hauteur they were so gifted at projecting. Vaccarello riffed on all the draping and hoods for a slew of beautifully rendered dresses cut from jersey in two different weights: one heavier and opaque, giving a more constructed look; the other lighter and gauzier, gently—and barely—veiling the body underneath. Some of these dresses were slipped under sweeping great coats and trenches—which fell in narrow columnar proportions from big shoulders in leather, tweed, or wool—or paired with more leather in the form of capacious blouson jackets that nipped inwards as their cut moved toward the waist. (Vaccarello deftly mimicked the silhouette and made it more day with a draped sweater with a hood over tapering track pants—and in contrast, loosened everything up with a series of terrific pajama suits, the standout in ivory polka dots on black.) Vaccarello’s color palette was gloriously muted but definitive, taken from the clothes shot on Polaroid from YSL fittings back in the day: soft browns, purples, camels, olives, and taupes, their tones heightened by the substantial jeweled or Claude Lalanne–esque gold cuffs. There were barely-there sandals and satiny pumps with high-cut vamps and gleaming metallic shades. Everything came together to create a look that was finished, polished, considered, and—time to bring back this word, clearly—done: a riposte to the idea that everything is heading us toward some inexorable slide into bland, dull, uniform, social-media-hyped coolness. Yet ’30s or ’80s, it didn’t really matter. What drives Vaccarello is where we are right now. Despite the historical referencing, his push is to always exist in the present. You can trace that from this collection back through his last few women’s runway shows. It’s a thread that takes you from the bold-shoulder blazers and latex of winter 2020 to the Belgian-y swaggering coats and floor-trailing skirts he did for fall to tonight’s offering. Let’s call what Vaccarello is doing empower dressing. It doesn’t rest on the outward gestures—the width of the shoulders, the height of the heels, or the length of the skirts. Instead, it reflects what’s within, unspoken, but undeniably powerful and potent.

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