June 2, 2023

Proenza Schouler has also been bitten by the non-shoe bug. The brand’s fall collection included black leather slippers, molded like a second skin, that show off the dips and valleys of every single toe. Paired with super opaque black tights, the slippers removed the punctuation that a shoe gives an outfit. Only when the models turned around could you see a contrasting white leather pull-tab that reminded you the feet were indeed being protected from the elements. The young designer Talia Byre also dipped her toe (I’m sorry) in the trend, pairing little black slippers with knits and tailored separates alike. Though her inspiration this season was the dancers Yvonne Rainer and Trisha Brown, they did not scream “dance!” but did seem thoroughly modern. (Although the non-shoe is certainly a cousin of the ballet flat, it can be distinguished by its higher vamp and disregard for trying to create a graceful line surrounding the foot.)

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Even Tory Burch, who is not known for doing anything minimalist, showed black square-toed ankle-height leather slippers (they’re not quite a boot), except hers were punctuated by a swath of bold color, and the best ones had a bright red dot right at the toe.

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