June 2, 2023
Nikola Jokic 100 Career Triple-Doubles With Denver Nuggets Of NBA Decor Poster Canvas

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Related Articles: There were two sides to the collection Sialelli showed in L’Atelier des Lumières, a former foundry on Rue Saint-Maur, the walls of which he bathed in projections of poetic footage created by the film-maker Joshua Woods. On the narrative side, we were on holiday somewhere between the desert of Marrakech and the coast of Casablanca: yellow and blue coats and miniskirts constructed in shiny eel skin, seaweed-shaped embroideries on jackets, and knitted robes de style that bounced like jellyfish. On the technical side, we were between the pristine and the deconstructed: pristine coats, shorts and mini-skirts frayed at the hems, macramé tops meticulously but coarsely handcrafted in silk tubing, crispy cotton dresses, and stone-washed satin coats that played to the same contrast. Transparent cloqué coats and suits and some of the more prettified robes de style considered, “subdued” would probably be overstating the evolution. But Sialelli did clarify his proposition. Gone were the animated prints, wild art deco ornamentations, and ballroom gestures of previous seasons. In their place, he turned to an earthy palette energized with hits of electric blue and orange, and materials—such as those eel coats, or the plumage that adorned path-clearing ballerinas—that were naturally graphic rather than artificially or animatedly so. Amongst the more complex proposals were some nice options for luxurious tailoring: clean enough to be timeless and sculpted enough to push past pre-collection territory.

Great Nikola Jokic 100 Career Triple-Doubles With Denver Nuggets Of NBA Decor Poster Canvas

  1. He seemed poised to make the leap to a larger house—one of those Paris big guns—but it never happened. Eventually, he moved to New York and worked briefly for the sportswear company Theory, then returned to Paris and relaunched his own label five years ago; it was a small operation and his attenuated tailoring and gothic evening gowns didn’t find a big audience. Then the pandemic happened; it was an especially cruel time for emerging businesses like his, but a creative spark came. Theyskens started piecing together fabric scraps accumulated over two decades, cooking them up—literally—into some of the most heavenly frocks this side of the couture. Bias-cut puzzles of silk, lace, and velvet leftovers, each a one-of-a-kind gem, they’re so labor-intensive to make they can’t be retailed in stores, but that doesn’t mean he’s not selling them. Though they can cost $25,000 or more, there’s now a waitlist. This collection is the third in a series. It’s grown beyond willowy patch-worked dresses to include a knit all-in-one featuring roughly 10,000 jet beads, a duster coat assembled from leather off-cuts embroidered one-by-one on tulle, and the sort of long, lean, just shy of severe tailoring Theyskens favors. The willowy patch-worked dresses have evolved too. He’s built them with shoulder pads for a new sense of structure and cut some with slits, which is the kind of silhouette that red carpet types favor. Together, the three-season trilogy makes for a very convincing job application should the right position become available.
  2. At the moment this Givenchy show was due to start in the Jardin des Plantes—outdoors—it was raining in a concerted and highly depressing manner. Luckily Valentino had started so late, and, thanks to footwear dramas, gone on so long, that the fashion traffic jam was around 30 minutes late squeezing its way to this show. The rain calmed as we crawled onwards. What had seemed an imminent catastrophe was scaled down by the time we arrived to mere potentially preventable disaster. The set-up was a runway and benches made of cork. We wiped them down and sat on our umbrellas to avoid getting soaked unmentionables. You were better off wearing dark pants—that cork stained. By the time the first models emerged there was blue above. A fascinating piece in the New York Times had already created an anticipatory contextualization for what was a radical shift under Matthew Williams. He’d brought in Carine Roitfeld—no longer working with MaxMara—as a stylist and shifted the emphasis of what that newspaper’s writer Jessica Testa inferred was a house with no distinct codes. But was that so? What we got was a sandwich fashioned from couture flavored bread—delicate, feminine, sometimes derivative and a little processed—that was filled with a highly-flavored LA mayonnaise. The ruching on the opening, excellent dresses, was an Hubert staple. The boucle jackets, conversely, did not belong here: this was a brazen sample to drop. During one weird moment the show transitioned to Williams’s home territory of streetwear infused contemporaneousness—great denim, slouchy combats, all of that—just as the soundtrack segued into Fleetwood Mac’s Everywhere; the most vanilla track one could ever imagine this highly progressive music-lover choosing. I looked across the runway and noticed that Ye was tapping the toes of his Balenciaga gumboots in time. Things were getting weird. The closing phase was rather magnificent, although the party was often at the back. A red dress featured a gorgeous swooping rear hemline that curved from the shoulder to sacrum. Another dress was tied up at the back in a series of bows: simple but lovely. These, Williams said afterwards, were part of a series of archival looks that he and Roitfeld had dug up from the archives and reworked. So this is a house with codes, after all. Was Willams losing his mind when that storm came in? He feigned calm, saying: “I was thinking that their skin would look beautiful with the water on it. And the liquid in the hair… it would look incredible. And that it would be more dramatic in the rain.” He added of Roitfeld’s involvement: “She understands the house and the Parisian woman. So we built the collection together—it’s a dialogue between us. The beautiful thing about the brand is that it speaks to different women. It’s good to speak to everybody.” Even if the risk in trying to speak to everyone is that you end up connecting with no-one. However Williams, I suspect, could still untie the knotty problem that is Givenchy. As the Times of New York pitched it, he just needs time. But will he get it?
  3. Demna has had his own experience of war—he fled Georgia with his family when he was a young boy of 10. Being gay compounded his struggles. “I’ve felt like I’ve been punched in my face for being who I am,” he said, but “you have to stand up and continue walking, kind of like this crusade of discovering who you are and defending that.” He called this a “very me show.” It was heavy on grafitti’d hoodies and ravaged jeans, but there was also evening wear, in clingy T-shirt jersey or glamorous pleats. These were survivors against the odds, a point Demna made by sending out men clutching baby carriers propped with eerily lifelike dolls. “Naturally I’m an optimist, but I cannot be very optimistic right now,” he said. “I think this show actually expresses that very much—the music, the set, it spoke about the moment in which we live.” The soundtrack by BFRND was actually quite terrifying. To finish, Demna sent out a dress made from cut-up parts of black Balenciaga Lariat bags, a make-do-and-mend masterpiece that also pointed up our nasty overconsumption habits. Remember, he sent every last piece through the mud, a “sacrilege” by luxury standards. Using fashion to comment on the crises that plague us is a tricky business. Of course Demna wants us to shop, and of course his bosses do, too. But when it comes time to spend, my money’s on the guy who looks around and is terrified, not the sleepwalkers.

Critical Nikola Jokic 100 Career Triple-Doubles With Denver Nuggets Of NBA Decor Poster Canvas

The Sacai collection began with a hybridized tuxedo-shirt combination, the pleats of the black jacket and white button-down intermingling at their hems. It was worn with a kicky pair of fitted pleated pants, more like leggings than trousers, that opened into flares a few inches north of the ankles. As the model passed, the silhouette got a “wow, that’s great,” from a seatmate. No small feat on the penultimate day of fashion month. Pleats are the main event at Sacai this season. Designer Chitose Abe’s collection was in progress long before Issey Miyake, the groundbreaking Japanese designer known for his innovative pleats, died in early August. But there’s a connection nonetheless. Miyake’s pleats promised freedom of movement and, while they’re entirely different, so do Abe’s. “I really wanted to express a sense of freedom, and an attitude of positivity and joy,” she said after the show. Abe began her career as a pattern-maker, and it explains her very focused approach. Every category got the pleat treatment, from crisp black and white tailoring to an army surplus MA-1 jacket to soft leather tank dresses. The result was a collection of A-line shapes with the fluidity that she was after, even when it was reined in with a more structured element, like the asymmetric mini layered over a short shirt-dress. Also A-line: most of the sleeves. Abe split jacket arms down the seams and designed shirt sleeves to extend past the fingertips; the models wore them pushed up, which created pooling volumes around the wrists. The room was full of women in Sacai coats, which are distinctive without yielding any sense of practicality. This season’s entry into the canon was a smartly cut trench with exterior pockets attached to its belt and those dramatic split sleeves.

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